Versilia is in the northern coastal region of Tuscany, a very popular summer destination for wealthier Italians. It’s been “on the map” for millenia, lined with Roman towns and architecture, and crossed by the Via Francigena route to France and England.
There’s a lot to see in a relatively compact area – if you get beyond the beach, you’re quickly into Tuscan hill country. The food is consistently excellent.
More ideas:
https://italysegreta.com/a-locals-guide-to-versilia
Camaiore
Camaiore is the working class version of Pietrasanta, with a similar layout along a main central street. It’s quite old – it was the site of one of the largest Roman encampments near the city of Lucca and an important station along the Via Cassia. In the Middle Ages, the town grew considerably thanks to the old Via Francigena – there are quite a few remaining churches from this era.
We stopped in for dinner – it’s a cheerful town with a lot of foot traffic, worth another visit to explore the local sites in more depth.
Dinner was at **Bisteccheria da Alan, as the name implies, specializes in meat – big, glorious steaks and excellent charcuterie.
More ideas: https://www.yolojournal.com/dispatch-from-camaiore/
Forte dei Marmi
Forte dei Marmi is the beach destination – a massive long beach packed with beach clubs. Just up from the water, there’s a very high end shopping district (every Italian luxury designer you can think of). It’s fun, extremely popular with Italians, and not particularly well known in the U.S. Lots and lots of restaurants.
Lunch at the packed **Pesce Baracca was excellent: reserve in advance, as people flock to this seafood destination.
More ideas: https://www.yolojournal.com/the-forte-dei-marmi-list/
Massarosa
Massarosa is the more inland/hilly part of Versilia: a popular inhabited center in Roman times, with various periods of wealth up to the present day that is evident in the abundance of churches and villas. There are numerous classic hilltop towns with views over the marshes and sea: quite lovely.
The romanesque **Pieve di San Pantaleone a Elici is worth a stop, a very old church (at least dating to 892, with the current structure roughly from the 1100s) in the Massarosa hills.
We had a wonderful Easter lunch at **Ristorante Osteria L’Oliveta – up a narrow road in the hills, with sweeping sea views. There’s a big patio for summer dining.
Pietrasanta
Pietrasanta (“sacred stone”) is very on the map in some artistic circles – right next to the Carrera marble quarries, it’s been hosting sculptors dating back to Michelangelo in the 16th century. It’s a small, pretty town lined with artworks – a great place for lunch and a few hours of exploring! Don’t miss the central piazza, which has rotating exhibits and is great for people-watching. There’s a lot of shopping as well – clothing, jewelry, antiques.
The **Museo dei Bozzetti, housed in a Romanesque building, is excellent (and free) – a storehouse for “rough drafts” of sculptures. Do walk through the various exit doors, we found our favorite works outside on a rear patio.
The **Church of the Misericordia (official name Chiesa di San Biagio e Sant’Antonio Abate) is on the main shopping street – a common storefront hiding two murals by Fernando Botero! They’re large and entertaining.
The best ice cream in town is at **Gelateria La Cremeria.
Outside of town is a very old Romanesque church that is quite run down and very actively in use, the parish church of **Santo Stefano di Versilia. It’s an interesting quick stop if you appreciate the architectural style. It’s located along the Via Francigena, which passes right in front of its facade. For a future visit, just past this church is a Unesco site, Palazzo Mediceo Seravezza.
We had an excellent lunch at **Trattoria Peposo – a converted house, family run. Food was excellent, very regional (lots of new dishes to try). Fairly out of the way, in a working neighborhood.
More Ideas:
