Way out there – beyond Scuol in the eastern most part of Switzerland. We went to the historic hotel Hof Zuort, and drove around to see both sides of the narrow valley. The region is stunning, not very developed, popular with the serious mountain biking, hiking, and kayaking crowds. If you’re not anything these things, it’s likely more of a drive-through area.

  • *Hof Zuort: getting there isn’t easy – you can drive, but they don’t want you to. It’s a relatively easy 1 hour walk on a graded dirt track. The upside – the valley is silent, aside from the farm animals, and it’s a very pretty building with okay food and nice hosts. The adjacent chapel is worth a long hike to see. I’d recommend it for people that really like hiking or mountain biking and want a rustic experience (with a non-rustic price tag). 
  • On the other side of the valley is the striking looking, but surprisingly run down *Hotel Val Sinestra. It’s a great drive to see it, but the building is very institutional and in a pretty dark spot of the valley, without particularly good views. Given a choice I’d go for Hof Zuort.


Tarasp Castle is a dramatic site as you pass near Scuol. The surrounding villages are more populated than you might expect, and it’s worth a stop to appreciate the views and architecture. You can tour the castle (built in 1040) in a limited way; depending on the time of year there are guided tours offered a few days a week.

We had a very nice lunch at **Schlosshotel Restaurant Chastè, just below the castle: a historic property with fine dining and historic rooms. It would make for a nice romantic weekend destination, with summer hiking and relatively easy ski access in the winter.

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