The Val Müstair region (also known as Engiadina Bassa) is one of the most remote regions of the canton of Graubünden. It’s very pretty, and you generally have to make a point to be there – it’s not exactly on the road to most places. In the winter, access requires a train – including a car train if you’re driving. I’ve focused here on the towns and small valleys off Route 27; also see the post on the town of Mustair itself.

Ramosch

**Restaurant Macun: Run and serviced by nice Germans. Nightclub-bar setting, but they serve a nice lunch. Interesting version of Vitello Tonnato. Totally pleasant, if not the best ambiance. An easy stop if you’re passing through the valley.

Scuol

Scuol is an old town – the first written record is from 1095. At the end of the 11th and in the 12th century, the lords of Tarasp owned extensive estates in the area, and in 1095/1096 they founded a Marian monastery in Scuol and endowed it richly. Remnants of castles and towers are scattered across the mountainous area – in the summer it’s especially pretty and green.

From circa 1860 onwards, Scuol has been a spa town, which you can still experience, and see in the Belle Époque style of the architecture and hotels. Skiing came next, with the lift infrastructure in the mid 1950s.

We liked our winter-time visit quite a bit and would return in other seasons. 

**Engadiner Boutique-Hotel GuardaVal was very good – it exceeded my expectations quite a bit. Beautiful, newly updated property with big, comfortable rooms. Excellent breakfast. Dinner was okay, though very expensive, slow, and a bit precious with the portion size. Included in the price was lift tickets (this was a surprise!) and spa access. Feasibly within walking distance to the lift, though it was a bit long for ski boot traversing. There’s a very long tunnel directly in the hotel to the Bogn Engiadina spa – 

**Bogn Engiadina Scuol is a major spa complex – six indoor and outdoor pools, perhaps 8-10 sauna type experiences, and a range of other water-centric activities. The adult area was good, with multiple saunas and a freezing plunge pool. We liked the drinking station, with water piped in from four different mineral spas in the area. Like many of these places, there’s a slightly institutional feel, but the facility is in good repair and appears to be well-run.

We also had a good dinner at **Trais Portas – the upstairs dining room is classic Swiss, wood lined and cozy. Friendly service and a good wine list. Lots of meat and regional cuisine options. (2026: appears to be a Thai restaurant now.)

Ski report **Engadin Scuol: Pleasant is the first thought that comes to mind, enjoyable and not hard core at all. Very easy gondola to the slopes from town. Wide open, all above tree line, very large rolling groomers with very good grooming. Some steeps, can be very high speed. All lifts with the exception of the highest peak, which is accessed by a T-bar. Not very busy, and the caliber of skier is medium to good. Quite a few places for a mid-morning drink, but only one option for sit-down lunch with service. Great for families and kids. With new snow there would be a lot of skiable terrain; otherwise on the smaller side.

We ate at the aforementioned restaurant at **Restaurant am Berg: La Motta, which was tasty. Make reservations in advance (or at the latest first thing in the morning when you get on the hill). Galen thought his burger was exceptional. There’s also a packed cafeteria area in the building with great views.

**La Palma Bar was a good, cheerful slopeside spot for a break.

Tarasp

Tarasp Castle is a dramatic site as you pass near Scuol. The surrounding villages are more populated than you might expect, and it’s worth a stop to appreciate the views and architecture. You can tour the castle (built in 1040) in a limited way; depending on the time of year there are guided tours offered a few days a week.

We had a very nice lunch at **Schlosshotel Restaurant Chastè, just below the castle: a historic property with fine dining and historic rooms. It would make for a nice romantic weekend destination, with summer hiking and relatively easy ski access in the winter.

Val Sinestra

Way out there – beyond Scuol in the eastern most part of Switzerland. We went to the historic hotel Hof Zuort, and drove around to see both sides of the narrow valley. The region is stunning, not very developed, popular with the serious mountain biking, hiking, and kayaking crowds. If you’re not anything these things, it’s likely more of a drive-through area.

• *Hof Zuort: getting there isn’t easy – you can drive, but they don’t want you to. It’s a relatively easy 1 hour walk on a graded dirt track. The upside – the valley is silent, aside from the farm animals, and it’s a very pretty building with okay food and nice hosts. The adjacent chapel is worth a long hike to see. I’d recommend it for people that really like hiking or mountain biking and want a rustic experience (with a non-rustic price tag). 
• On the other side of the valley is the striking looking, but surprisingly run down *Hotel Val Sinestra. It’s a great drive to see it, but the building is very institutional and in a pretty dark spot of the valley, without particularly good views. Given a choice I’d go for Hof Zuort.