We stopped for lunch in **Udine, which is notable for its food scene. It’s a fairly typical mid-sized Italian city, though cleaner than the southern versions. The main square is notable for being crammed with things that don’t belong together.

We had a very good, very traditional (to the region) meal at **Osteria Aquila Nera (, which is clearly a destination and popular with the locals.


**Palmanova: somewhat to my surprise, this is a definite do if you’re in the area: an architectural city planning oddity, a hexagon around a central circular square. The fortified city site is highly obvious from the outside and inside. It’s a quick stop, but worthwhile. Pizzeria Al Gambero was recommended for lunch.

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