Big discovery: all the pretty beaches are in cities. The entire coastline down to Trani is ugly. We had a pleasant lunch at a beach club (Caribe Beach) along the way. Not worth taking this drive, stick to the faster motorways.

We loved Trani itself. Epic architecture, crazy history. Very Indiana Jones. The town was all sunbathing and swimming at the pier. A lovely city to spend a day wandering and swimming. The cathedral is under construction but very lovely.

**Basilica di San Nicola Pellegrino Cathedral (Trani): Trani’s magnificent Romanesque cathedral impresses not only with its size but also for the building’s dazzling white stone façade which creates a beautiful contrast with the blue of the nearby sea. The construction has been dated between 1159 and 1186, the bell tower in a second step, beginning in the 13th century, completed more than a hundred years later.