Split is a gleaming white maze of a city, surrounded by cruise ships and urban sprawl. Split is just mobbed with tourists, and if you have the time I’d just do what everyone else appears to be doing – get a guide to add some color to the sites. Activity wise, we toured the basements of Diocletian’s Palace and the 4th century Saint Domnius Cathedral. We give the city a two overall – if you’re in the area, it’s worth a visit, but I wouldn’t seek it out.

Food and Lodging

  • **Dvor, south of town, is a lovely outdoor dining spot with more of the usual fish favorites. Quality was high, our waiter a bit surly, the setting carefully curated with lots of shade and sweeping views. 
  • **Restaurant Leonis was the best meal we had in central Split. The food wasn’t especially different from anywhere else, but the setting is elegant, the menu a bit more diverse, and there’s more effort on the part of the staff (without being much more expense than anything else.
  • *Restaurant Nostromo is an expensive tourist trap – food was fine, overpriced, felt like it was catering to the masses. Server was nice.
  • We stayed at the historic *Hotel Park. While there’s nothing really to complain about, it’s generic and expensive, and I’d stay next time in the old town rather than out by the town swimming area. 


**Krka National Park: situated along the Krka River about an hour by car from Split, the park is known for a series of 7 waterfalls. It’s a pretty place, packed with crowds. It reminds me of Cascades d’Ouzoud in Morocco, with less verticality but more water. Galen isn’t convinced this is a must – if you’re pressed for time I’d just stick with touring Split.

It does take a full day to see the major sites, including lunch and a ferry ride up to Skradinski. We had an average meal at **Konoba Dalmatino (the usual fish options), and took in the view of the river and town from the top of the relics of the *Fortress of Ban Pavao Šubić of Bribir.


Trogir’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Arriving from the water, it has dramatic walls and a fortress-like appearance. The interior is a warren of tiny streets, very pretty, crowded but far less so than Split. A nice place to stop.

**Queen Teuta Restaurant is in a pretty square between buildings, with tastier than expected food. It’s similar to nearly everywhere else, but the execution was a step up.

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