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Split is a gleaming white maze of a city, surrounded by cruise ships and urban sprawl. Split is just mobbed with tourists, and if you have the time I’d just do what everyone else appears to be doing – get a guide to add some color to the sites. Activity wise, we toured the basements of Diocletian’s Palace and the 4th century Saint Domnius Cathedral. We give the city a two overall – if you’re in the area, it’s worth a visit, but I wouldn’t seek it out.

Food and Lodging

  • **Dvor, south of town, is a lovely outdoor dining spot with more of the usual fish favorites. Quality was high, our waiter a bit surly, the setting carefully curated with lots of shade and sweeping views. 
  • **Restaurant Leonis was the best meal we had in central Split. The food wasn’t especially different from anywhere else, but the setting is elegant, the menu a bit more diverse, and there’s more effort on the part of the staff (without being much more expense than anything else.
  • *Restaurant Nostromo is an expensive tourist trap – food was fine, overpriced, felt like it was catering to the masses. Server was nice.
  • We stayed at the historic *Hotel Park. While there’s nothing really to complain about, it’s generic and expensive, and I’d stay next time in the old town rather than out by the town swimming area. 

Krka

**Krka National Park: situated along the Krka River about an hour by car from Split, the park is known for a series of 7 waterfalls. It’s a pretty place, packed with crowds. It reminds me of Cascades d’Ouzoud in Morocco, with less verticality but more water. Galen isn’t convinced this is a must – if you’re pressed for time I’d just stick with touring Split.

It does take a full day to see the major sites, including lunch and a ferry ride up to Skradinski. We had an average meal at **Konoba Dalmatino (the usual fish options), and took in the view of the river and town from the top of the relics of the *Fortress of Ban Pavao Šubić of Bribir.


Trogir

Trogir’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Arriving from the water, it has dramatic walls and a fortress-like appearance. The interior is a warren of tiny streets, very pretty, crowded but far less so than Split. A nice place to stop.

**Queen Teuta Restaurant is in a pretty square between buildings, with tastier than expected food. It’s similar to nearly everywhere else, but the execution was a step up.

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