Skiing

1 – Zermatt (Valais)  While definitely a big deal production and requiring advance planning and a decent amount of money, Zermatt is lots of fun and has the best skiing terrain we’ve found in Switzerland. 313 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1600 m and a summit elevation of 3900 m.

2 – Gstaad (Bern)  Full of flashy clothes, amazing people watching. Generally not crowded, stunning views, perfect for beginner/intermediate skiers. 250 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1050 m and a summit elevation of 2971 m.

3 – Lech am Arlberg (Vorarlberg)  A manageable, on-the-larger-side collection of ski areas with amazing conditions and extremely good infrastructure. It very much lives up to the hype. 305 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1450 m and a summit elevation of 2811 m.

4 – Les 3 Vallées (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes) One of the most amazing combined resorts we’ve skied in Europe. We skied Courchevel, Méribel, and a very small amount of Val Thorens, and I can say the lower slopes of Méribel were not impressive and some of the worst grooming I’ve seen in my life. Courchevel is amazing. 600 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1100 m and a summit elevation of 3230 m.

5 – The Sellaronda (covers Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba and Val di Fassa)  Skiing here is really excellent. It runs intermediate and can be crowded, but the circuit was very enjoyable and the views are incredible throughout. 500 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1236 m and a summit elevation of 2685 m.

6 – Arosa Lenzerheide (Graubünden)  In Lenzerheide you should begin on the Sesselbahn Scalottas as it has great groomed runs and amazing off-piste, shockingly in the trees, which is very rare for the Alps. The ski area on the East side of the valley is much more aggressive, as the mountains are higher. The West side of the valley has a lot of rolling hills that are excellent (plus the aforementioned tree skiing). On your second day, go to Arosa, which is similar to the West side of Lenzerheide, rolling hills, lots of terrain, and very large. Arosa is the most famous, but we found the skiing in Lenzerheide superior. 225 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1230 m and a summit elevation of 2865 m.

7 – St Moritz – Corviglia (Graubünden)  Stunning views, great slopes, good on piste and off. Really big with a lot of diversity. 350 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1768 m and a summit elevation of 3303 m.

8 – Klosters/Davos – Gotschna (Graubünden)  The main ***Davos/Klosters ski area is pretty amazing. Wide open groomers, and lots of them. High quality grooming, and if you take the yellow chair to the last tram, very steep groomed runs from the top. Everything is above tree line, and there’s a ton of off piste if the conditions permit. The caliber of skier is quite high. 320 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1191 m and a summit elevation of 2844 m.

9 – Saint-Luc (Valais)  Love this place! The area is very high, so it generally has good snow. Off piste is almost unlimited, and 90% above tree line. It’s not crowded, has lots of terrain, and a beautiful setting, including excellent views of the Matterhorn. 60 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 2000 m and a summit elevation of 3000 m.

10 – Belalp (Valais)  Lots of terrain, good lifts, very high altitude (3182m at the top) – making for a long season. Amazing groomers and wide open off-piste. Tunnel through the mountain! Bring big guns or powder skis. 104 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1050 m and a summit elevation of 3118 m.

11 – Megève (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Lower elevation with trees, usually good snow coverage after Christmas. Amazing rolling pistes, great grooming, our favorite place to ski in France (so far). 400 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1100 m and a summit elevation of 2350 m.

12 – Tignes & Val d’Isere (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Gigantic. Highest ski resort in Europe. Great on-piste, great off-piste if powder, all above tree line. 300 km of trails. Can be a little chaotic given the masses of people visiting who ski once a year or less. Would be a pleasant long stay, plenty to explore. 300 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1550 m and a summit elevation of 3456 m.

13 – Murren (Bern)  Amazing views, longer season than most, fun historic runs to try. Great on-piste, would be great off-piste. Very steep, very fast. 213 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 796 m and a summit elevation of 2970 m.

14 – St Moritz – Corvatsch (Graubünden)  Corvatsch has steep runs, lots of terrain, amazing views. The top is at 3303 – very high for Switzerland. Not crowded, for more advanced skiers than Corviglia. Not a lot of lifts. 350 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1768 m and a summit elevation of 3303 m.

15 – La Thuile – Espace San Bernardo (Aosta)  The ski area is huge, including a link “over the hill” to La Rosiere in France. In the La Thuile area, very mellow groomers, all blue and red in the upper area, and towards Col Du Petit St Bernard there are the steeper blacks. Upper mountain is wide open, no trees, and the lower mountain has great tree skiing, which is uncommon in the Alps. 160 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1441 m and a summit elevation of 2800 m.

16 – Saalbach (Salzburg) is on the outer edges of a truly massive ski area, the SkiCircus Saalbach-Hinterglemm-Leogang. It’s a beautiful area, lots of peaks and valleys, 270 km of piste and 73 lifts (at time of reporting). It’s all very low, but we got lucky with new snow, medium to low angle powder and great wide open pistes. In the areas we skied, there was nothing that was a black or difficult; most of it was well below or at treeline. Skier caliber is low. 270 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1003 m and a summit elevation of 2096 m.

17 – Grindelwald-Wengen Ski Area (Bern)  Beautiful views of the Eiger and the Jungfrau. Okay groomers early in the morning on Männlicchen (get up early if you take the tram from Wengen) which gets the sun first. Excellent off-piste. The caliber of skier is high, even though there are some tourists. Runs quite crowded. Not huge, but has enough to keep you entertained.

18 – Saas-Fee (Valais)  If you want to get right up next to a glacier, this is the place to go. The skiing is excellent, but don’t go here for a ton of skiing time – you’ll spend much more time than you’re used to on trams and gondolas.

19 – Silvretta Montafon (Vorarlberg) has low to mid-high elevation, some in-tree skiing. Many steeps and small cliffs, reminiscent of Squaw Valley, CA. Tons of open terrain, not really great on-piste runs (this is mostly an off-piste, vertical, advanced area). Not fancy, catering to more serious skiers.

20 – Les Arcs (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Reminds Galen of Vail, and has big sweeping groomers with some steepness. Generally pleasant, not too fancy.

21 – La Clusaz (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Excellent ski area with lots of skiable terrain, inexpensive, not crowded. Massif de Balme has a lot of very wide open, big terrain, steep with lots of drops if there is new snow. This is where Candide’s run is, and it’s a wonderful place to begin your morning. Next, head to Massif de l’Aiguille, which has a lot of options for lunch and good runs. There are almost no Americans or Brits, very French and Swiss crowd.

22 – Villard de Lans and Corrençon en Vercors (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes) In general, we were very surprised by the size – it feels big, the quality of the skiing – excellent, and lack of crowds. There are a few double fall line groomers and some steeps, with lots of small cliff bands for extremely fun off piste. Extremely affordable. For a low altitude resort, the snow quality was surprisingly good. Villard de Lans and Corrençon en Vercors: This resort offers 125 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1100 m and a summit elevation of 2080 m.

23 – Seiser Alm (Dolomites)  Absolutely incredible views, easy-intermediate, but lovely slopes. Large area and the Ronda is great. Not a place for snowboarders. Lots of huts and hotels to eat at. Great high speed groomers. 181 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1060 m and a summit elevation of 2518 m.

24 – Montgenevre (Hautes-Alpes)  Early morning skiing is excellent on Les Gondrans – good warmup runs, great groomers, great grooming, mostly in the sun. Then head east. In general there’s a lot of terrain, even without going over to Sestriere. Lots of side country, great chutes, and what seems like a lot of good tree skiing if there’s enough snow. We probably only covered one-third of the slopes in a day – there’s plenty to keep you busy for a long time.

25 – Serre Chevalier (Hauts-de-France)  Very easy to get around, low to medium altitude (so a lot of it is in the trees, which is nice). Top notch grooming even when there is no new snow. Large enough, so even when there are a lot of people, it doesn’t feel crowded. Not fancy, perhaps a bit down market, totally pleasant. Very invested in sustainability (operated on 100% renewable energy since 2011).

26 – Arolla (Valais)  A unique place – a backcountry destination with a little help from poma-lifts. Very exhausting and a big time waster if you want to do a lot of skiing (you’ll spend 2/3rds of the day in lines or on the lifts). BUT if you like backcountry, it is likely one of the best places around. And an excellent place to find untouched powder a week, even two weeks after a snow. This area is very popular for heli-skiing.

27 – Courmayeur (Aosta)  Medium steep, much of it below tree line. Smaller than expected but very interesting terrain. Medium steep groomers, and with snow on the back side it looks like it would be good tree skiing. Notably pretty and not a lot of “the bad type” of tourists – generally speaking people from Milan/Turin who could ski. Major après scene that starts around noon. The lift lines were longer than we are used to.

28 – La Rosiere – Espace San Bernardo (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  160 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1850 m and a summit elevation of 2800 m.

29 – Chamonix (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  The skiing is steep, not for bad or new skiers. If you want the steep slopes – this is the place to go. Very limited amenities on the slopes (where’s the Vin Chaud!) and attracts an international ground of varying ability (which can be a problem). We’re not huge fans of the village. There are multiple areas – we have skiied at Les Houches, Brévent – Flégèrer (our favorite), and Grands Montets. 150 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1035 m and a summit elevation of 3842 m.

30 – Lauchneralp (Valais)  Steep! No crowds, great views. Very high elevation (3100M at the top, mid-mountain is about 2000M). All above tree line, wide open, great off piste and multiple, very long, steep piste runs. It’s extremely secluded and it appears only locals know about it. Very good late season spot.

31 – Schonried (Bern)  Schonried is at a higher elevation, covered under the same Gstaad pass, but not actually connected with lifts. I like less than Gstaad, but it’s a very popular spot for snowboarders.

32 – Meiringen-Hasliberg (Bern)  Wasserwendi is under 1200 feet, but there are some very nice runs through the trees from the top (Käserstatt) to the middle station. Great for snow days and low visibility. Everything above Kaserstatt is above tree line and explored. The caliber of skier is low. Seems family friendly.

33 – Valmalenco (Lombardy)  Obscure location, well above average scenery, very steep, long groomers. Fairly low with top peak at 2300m, no Pomas. Inexpensive (€48 day pass, 2023), tons of Milenese, no Americans. Very pleasant, and at the prices of the area a good choice for families or groups looking for a long ski weekend.

34 – Marécottes (Valais)  Not far outside of Martigny but far above, Marécottes is a hidden gem of a ski area. One chairlift + one poma lift. A steep narrow bowl surrounded by peaks, partially below tree line (unique for Switzerland). South facing. Reminds Galen of a small Squaw Valley. Lots of off-piste, short and accessible chutes. Good groomers with quite a bit of variety and terrain for such a small mountain. With new snow off-piste looks like it would be epic.

35 – Hohsaas (Valais) has high elevation groomers, though not many of them (2.5 slopes). Fast rollers, a fairly long run, and really fun, all above tree line. There’s absolutely no off-piste as the entire place is a rock field. Great for one day of fast skiing.

36 – Villars-Gryon-Les Diablerets (Vaud)  The closest “real” resort to our house (ignoring the kids-only places). While not my top pick, I prefer it to Port du Soleil and it’s excellent on a powder day. Big enough, well-groomed, lots of terrain for all skill levels. Parking is easier driving a bit further to Diablerets.

37 – Klosters – Madrisa (Graubünden)  A lot of fun. It’s small (we had been on every run by noon), but it wasn’t crowded, has long and lovely swooping runs, good grooming, and a lot of just off-piste terrain.

38 – Engadin Scuol  Pleasant, enjoyable and not hard core at all. Very easy gondola to the slopes from town. Wide open, all above tree line, very large rolling groomers with very good grooming. Some steeps, can be very high speed. All lifts with the exception of the highest peak, which is accessed by a T-bar. Not very busy, and the caliber of skier is medium to good. Great for families and kids. With new snow there would be a lot of skiable terrain; otherwise on the smaller side.

39 – Savognin/Radons (Graubünden)  Rolling groomers and great low angle powder. Exceptional vistas.

40 – Port du Soleil (Valais)  One of the closest ski areas near our house. Huge, and who doesn’t want to ski to France for lunch? Also the largest mountain biking destination (by trail volume?) in Europe. Very weather dependent, can get fogged out.

41 – Adelboden–Lenk (Bern)  Looks like it would be excellent on a powder day. Very speed groomers, use big guns. Popular and crowded when warm. Short season, pretty low, highest point is 2100 meters. The opposite (west) side of the valley has a small ski area. Less steep, more children, more low key. Covered under the same pass.

42 – Diavolezza-Lagalb (Graubünden)  Very few lifts, very long runs, high elevation. Very steep and very fast. Combine with St Moritz – it would be worth it as a combo trip.

43 – Andermatt (Uri)  Skiing was very good. It’s very large – so large that they offer a special on the “apre-train,” to allow people to ski from one end and train back on the other. The equipment is very modern, which is reflected in the surprising 89 CHF lift ticket, the highest I’ve seen in Switzerland. The on piste runs are long, very steep, wide open, great views. It’s above tree line in glacier scree and boulders, so any off piste would require significant coverage.

44 – Engelberg (Obwalden)  Very steep, amazing side country, very technical but not difficult, requiring avi gear for safety (and a group). Excellent off-piste, steep on-piste, do not go there for the groomers. There aren’t really any warm-up runs, everything, unless you’re skiing on the home run, is red or black and hard charging. It’s all above the tree line.

45 – Verbier (Valais)  Verbier is full of tourists, popular for the “once a year skiers” and generally feels unsafe. Very short runs, long lift lines, and reminds me of everything bad about Tahoe. If you have to ski here, and it happens to be a snow day, try Bruson, accessed from the Le Châble lift. When we skied it, it was empty, with long groomers, great off-piste through the trees, and you can do quite nice laps from the main lift to the poma and back.

46 – Zillertal Arena (Tyrol)  Part of the three resorts that make up the Zillertal (collectively the largest ski area in Europe). It has massive amounts of terrain, above and below tree line. 90% of it is intermediate to beginner, predominately low elevation. Lots of high speed quads and nothing but Dutch people. Very crowded. Good for families.

47 – Grand Massif (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Tons of Brits! Down market, but not in a bad way – not particularly pretentious. Very large, two thirds below tree line. Beautiful views. Lots of slope side restaurants, places to have drinks. Caliber of skier is the worst we’ve seen in Europe (very beginner), and pinch points can get quite crowded. However, given the size, and quite good lift infrastructure/coverage, we didn’t have problems with waiting in line. Because it’s low, make sure it’s cold and there’s a lot of snow, or go early in the year. Looks like it would be great off-piste when there’s good coverage.

48 – Plose (Dolomites)  Just outside of Brixen. Medium high elevation at 2400 m, fairly short, groomed runs for on piste with a good angle for practicing carving. If there is snow, the entire run is above treeline (other than the homerun), with wide open rollers and views of the Dolomites and Alps in all directions. Good infrastructure, enough huts, not fancy, very family and local oriented.

49 – Crans-Montana (Valais)  Big, with a lot of terrain. It’s a fairly advanced place, unfortunately attracting a not-advanced crowd, making for a lot of out of control people and a generally stressful experience. The backside on Mount Bonvin is a long and impressive ride.

50 – Saas-Almagell (Valais)  A mid-elevation, local village spot. Super cute for half a day, or perhaps a full day. Easy groomers, of medium steepness. All runs are in the trees with beautiful views of the valley and mountains. Only two chair lifts.

51 – Nax-Mont-Noble (Valais)  Very small, but surprisingly good on-piste. Mostly above tree line. Three fixed lifts, the rest pomo-toe. Great vistas. No appealing place to eat – one cafeteria restaurant and one cash-only Vin Chaud/Burger place.

52 – Aletsch Arena (Valais)  One of our least favorite ski destinations of recent memory. Fairly steep, and good groomers all over the place. Good off piste if there’s fresh snow. There’s a big investment in infrastructure. Far too expensive for what it is (the same as Verbier!) and not worth it. Bad/rude skiers and hikers everywhere, all over the mountain. No one is looking where they are going, extremely crowded, lots of kids, accidents waiting to happen on every run. Limited dining options, extremely down market.

53 – Zugspitze (Bavaria)  Zugspitze is adjacent to the Garmisch slopes – not connected – and higher, with a few runs up on the glacier. Beautiful views, fairly small area, if conditions are right ski Garmisch Classic instead – Sugspitze is more of a novelty than a ski area.

54 – Leukerbad (Valais)  Nice spot, but very small, not much to explore. See notes for summer trips, which would be better for Leukerbad.

55 – Flims-Laax-Falera (Graubünden)  We didn’t like the skiing at all – poorly laid out lifts, thin runs or cat tracks from one lift to another. All above the tree line. Could be good off-piste if there’s a lot of snow cover. Massively crowded, long lines everywhere, and the most expensive place we’ve skied in Switzerland. Popular with snowboarders.

56 – Elm (Glarus)  Cute, very small, south facing, and low elevation – top is around 2000 meters. Two lifts and two T-bars. Partially in the trees, and the groomers are actually pretty steep and fast. Great for children, very local, lots of ski racers – clear a place where you grow up skiing.

57 – Alpe d’Huez (Auvergne-Rhone-Alps)  The ski area is big, with 249 kilometres of piste and 84 lifts. The most resort-like place we’ve been in Europe, which is not a good thing. If the snow is not new (which is an issue – this is quite far south), the grooming is an issue – they are probably the worst groomers in all of Europe. Way too many British holidaymakers out to party, and the caliber of skier is so low it’s disconcerting and dangerous. The infrastructure is old, and everything seems overpriced.

58 – Grimentz/Zinal (Valais)  Not a huge fan of this area – Zinal side is a bit better. Very rocky terrain, needs a lot of snow coverage.

1 – Les 3 Vallées (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  One of the most amazing combined resorts we’ve skied in Europe. We skied Courchevel, Méribel, and a very small amount of Val Thorens, and I can say the lower slopes of Méribel were not impressive and some of the worst grooming I’ve seen in my life. Courchevel is amazing.

2 – Megève (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Lower elevation with trees, usually good snow coverage after Christmas. Amazing rolling pistes, great grooming, our favorite place to ski in France (so far).

3 – Tignes & Val d’Isere (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Gigantic. Highest ski resort in Europe. Great on-piste, great off-piste if powder, all above tree line. 300 km of trails. Can be a little chaotic given the masses of people visiting who ski once a year or less. Would be a pleasant long stay, plenty to explore.

4 – La Rosiere – Espace San Bernardo (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  The ski area is huge. In the La Thuile area, very mellow groomers, all blue and red in the upper area, and towards Col Du Petit St Bernard there are the steeper blacks. Upper mountain is wide open, no trees, and the lower mountain has great tree skiing, which is uncommon in the Alps.

5 – Les Arcs (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Reminds Galen of Vail, and has big sweeping groomers with some steepness. Generally pleasant, not too fancy.

6 – La Clusaz (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Excellent ski area with lots of skiable terrain, inexpensive, not crowded. Massif de Balme has a lot of very wide open, big terrain, steep with lots of drops if there is new snow. This is where Candide’s run is, and it’s a wonderful place to begin your morning. Next, head to Massif de l’Aiguille, which has a lot of options for lunch and good runs. There are almost no Americans or Brits, very French and Swiss crowd.

7 – Villard de Lans and Corrençon en Vercors (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes) In general, we were very surprised by the size – it feels big, the quality of the skiing – excellent, and lack of crowds. There are a few double fall line groomers and some steeps, with lots of small cliff bands for extremely fun off piste. Extremely affordable. For a low altitude resort, the snow quality was surprisingly good. Villard de Lans and Corrençon en Vercors: This resort offers 125 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1100 m and a summit elevation of 2080 m.

8 – Montgenevre (Hautes-Alpes)  Early morning skiing is excellent on Les Gondrans – good warmup runs, great groomers, great grooming, mostly in the sun. Then head east. In general there’s a lot of terrain, even without going over to Sestriere. Lots of side country, great chutes, and what seems like a lot of good tree skiing if there’s enough snow. We probably only covered one-third of the slopes in a day – there’s plenty to keep you busy for a long time.

9 – Serre Chevalier (Hauts-de-France)  Very easy to get around, low to medium altitude (so a lot of it is in the trees, which is nice). Top notch grooming even when there is no new snow. Large enough, so even when there are a lot of people, it doesn’t feel crowded. Not fancy, perhaps a bit down market, totally pleasant. Very invested in sustainability (operated on 100% renewable energy since 2011).

10 – Chamonix (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  The skiing is steep, not for bad or new skiers. If you want the steep slopes – this is the place to go. Very limited amenities on the slopes (where’s the Vin Chaud!) and attracts an international ground of varying ability (which can be a problem). We’re not huge fans of the village. There are multiple areas – we have skiied at Les Houches, Brévent – Flégèrer (our favorite), and Grands Montets.

11 – Grand Massif (Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes)  Tons of Brits! Down market, but not in a bad way – not particularly pretentious. Very large, two thirds below tree line. Beautiful views. Lots of slope side restaurants, places to have drinks. Caliber of skier is the worst we’ve seen in Europe (very beginner), and pinch points can get quite crowded. However, given the size, and quite good lift infrastructure/coverage, we didn’t have problems with waiting in line. Because it’s low, make sure it’s cold and there’s a lot of snow, or go early in the year. Looks like it would be great off-piste when there’s good coverage.

12 – Alpe d’Huez (Auvergne-Rhone-Alps)  The ski area is big, with 249 kilometres of piste and 84 lifts. The most resort-like place we’ve been in Europe, which is not a good thing. If the snow is not new (which is an issue – this is quite far south), the grooming is an issue – they are probably the worst groomers in all of Europe. Way too many British holidaymakers out to party, and the caliber of skier is so low it’s disconcerting and dangerous. The infrastructure is old, and everything seems overpriced.

1 – Zugspitze (Bavaria)  Zugspitze is adjacent to the Garmisch slopes – not connected – and higher, with a few runs up on the glacier. Beautiful views, fairly small area, if conditions are right ski Garmisch Classic instead – Sugspitze is more of a novelty than a ski area.

1 – The Sellaronda (covers Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba and Val di Fassa)  Skiing here is really excellent. It runs intermediate and can be crowded, but the circuit was very enjoyable and the views are incredible throughout.

2 – La Thuile – Espace San Bernardo (Aosta)  The ski area is huge, including a link “over the hill” to La Rosiere in France. In the La Thuile area, very mellow groomers, all blue and red in the upper area, and towards Col Du Petit St Bernard there are the steeper blacks. Upper mountain is wide open, no trees, and the lower mountain has great tree skiing, which is uncommon in the Alps.

3 – Seiser Alm (Dolomites)  Absolutely incredible views, easy-intermediate, but lovely slopes. Large area and the Ronda is great. Not a place for snowboarders. Lots of huts and hotels to eat at. Great high speed groomers.

4 – Courmayeur (Aosta)  Medium steep, much of it below tree line. Smaller than expected but very interesting terrain. Medium steep groomers, and with snow on the back side it looks like it would be good tree skiing. Notably pretty and not a lot of “the bad type” of tourists – generally speaking people from Milan/Turin who could ski. Major après scene that starts around noon. The lift lines were longer than we are used to.

5 – Valmalenco (Lombardy)  Obscure location, well above average scenery, very steep, long groomers. Fairly low with top peak at 2300m, no Pomas. Inexpensive (€48 day pass, 2023), tons of Milenese, no Americans. Very pleasant, and at the prices of the area a good choice for families or groups looking for a long ski weekend.

6 – Plose (Dolomites)  Just outside of Brixen. Medium high elevation at 2400 m, fairly short, groomed runs for on piste with a good angle for practicing carving. If there is snow, the entire run is above treeline (other than the homerun), with wide open rollers and views of the Dolomites and Alps in all directions. Good infrastructure, enough huts, not fancy, very family and local oriented.

1 – Zermatt (Valais)  While definitely a big deal production and requiring advance planning and a decent amount of money, Zermatt is lots of fun and has the best skiing terrain we’ve found in Switzerland. 313 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1600 m and a summit elevation of 3900 m.

2 – Gstaad (Bern)  Full of flashy clothes, amazing people watching. Generally not crowded, stunning views, perfect for beginner/intermediate skiers. 250 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1050 m and a summit elevation of 2971 m.

3 – Arosa Lenzerheide (Graubünden)  In Lenzerheide you should begin on the Sesselbahn Scalottas as it has great groomed runs and amazing off-piste, shockingly in the trees, which is very rare for the Alps. The ski area on the East side of the valley is much more aggressive, as the mountains are higher. The West side of the valley has a lot of rolling hills that are excellent (plus the aforementioned tree skiing). On your second day, go to Arosa, which is similar to the West side of Lenzerheide, rolling hills, lots of terrain, and very large. Arosa is the most famous, but we found the skiing in Lenzerheide superior. 225 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1230 m and a summit elevation of 2865 m.

4 – St Moritz – Corviglia (Graubünden)  Stunning views, great slopes, good on piste and off. Really big with a lot of diversity. 350 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1768 m and a summit elevation of 3303 m. 350 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1768 m and a summit elevation of 3303 m.

5 – Klosters/Davos – Gotschna (Graubünden)  The main ***Davos/Klosters ski area is pretty amazing. Wide open groomers, and lots of them. High quality grooming, and if you take the yellow chair to the last tram, very steep groomed runs from the top. Everything is above tree line, and there’s a ton of off piste if the conditions permit. The caliber of skier is quite high. 320 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1191 m and a summit elevation of 2844 m.

6 – Saint-Luc (Valais)  Love this place! The area is very high, so it generally has good snow. Off piste is almost unlimited, and 90% above tree line. It’s not crowded, has lots of terrain, and a beautiful setting, including excellent views of the Matterhorn. 60 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 2000 m and a summit elevation of 3000 m.

7 – Belalp (Valais)  Lots of terrain, good lifts, very high altitude (3182m at the top) – making for a long season. Amazing groomers and wide open off-piste. Tunnel through the mountain! Bring big guns or powder skis. 104 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1050 m and a summit elevation of 3118 m.

8 – Murren (Bern)  Amazing views, longer season than most, fun historic runs to try. Great on-piste, would be great off-piste. Very steep, very fast. 213 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 796 m and a summit elevation of 2970 m.

9 – St Moritz – Corvatsch (Graubünden)  Corvatsch has steep runs, lots of terrain, amazing views. The top is at 3303 – very high for Switzerland. Not crowded, for more advanced skiers than Corviglia. Not a lot of lifts. 350 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1768 m and a summit elevation of 3303 m. 213 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 796 m and a summit elevation of 2970 m.

10 – Grindelwald-Wengen Ski Area (Bern)  Beautiful views of the Eiger and the Jungfrau. Okay groomers early in the morning on Männlicchen (get up early if you take the tram from Wengen) which gets the sun first. Excellent off-piste. The caliber of skier is high, even though there are some tourists. Runs quite crowded. Not huge, but has enough to keep you entertained.

11 – Saas-Fee (Valais)  If you want to get right up next to a glacier, this is the place to go. The skiing is excellent, but don’t go here for a ton of skiing time – you’ll spend much more time than you’re used to on trams and gondolas. 145 km of pistes, with a base elevation of 1470 m and a summit elevation of 3600 m.

12 – Arolla (Valais)  A unique place – a backcountry destination with a little help from poma-lifts. Very exhausting and a big time waster if you want to do a lot of skiing (you’ll spend 2/3rds of the day in lines or on the lifts). BUT if you like backcountry, it is likely one of the best places around. And an excellent place to find untouched powder a week, even two weeks after a snow. This area is very popular for heli-skiing.

13 – Lauchneralp (Valais)  Steep! No crowds, great views. Very high elevation (3100M at the top, mid-mountain is about 2000M). All above tree line, wide open, great off piste and multiple, very long, steep piste runs. It’s extremely secluded and it appears only locals know about it. Very good late season spot.

14 – Schonried (Bern)  Schonried is at a higher elevation, covered under the same Gstaad pass, but not actually connected with lifts. I like less than Gstaad, but it’s a very popular spot for snowboarders.

15 – Meiringen-Hasliberg (Bern)  Wasserwendi is under 1200 feet, but there are some very nice runs through the trees from the top (Käserstatt) to the middle station. Great for snow days and low visibility. Everything above Kaserstatt is above tree line and explored. The caliber of skier is low. Seems family friendly.

16 – Marécottes (Valais)  Not far outside of Martigny but far above, Marécottes is a hidden gem of a ski area. One chairlift + one poma lift. A steep narrow bowl surrounded by peaks, partially below tree line (unique for Switzerland). South facing. Reminds Galen of a small Squaw Valley. Lots of off-piste, short and accessible chutes. Good groomers with quite a bit of variety and terrain for such a small mountain. With new snow off-piste looks like it would be epic.

17 – Hohsaas (Valais) has high elevation groomers, though not many of them (2.5 slopes). Fast rollers, a fairly long run, and really fun, all above tree line. There’s absolutely no off-piste as the entire place is a rock field. Great for one day of fast skiing.

18 – Villars-Gryon-Les Diablerets (Vaud)  The closest “real” resort to our house (ignoring the kids-only places). While not my top pick, I prefer it to Port du Soleil and it’s excellent on a powder day. Big enough, well-groomed, lots of terrain for all skill levels. Parking is easier driving a bit further to Diablerets.

19 – Klosters – Madrisa (Graubünden)  A lot of fun. It’s small (we had been on every run by noon), but it wasn’t crowded, has long and lovely swooping runs, good grooming, and a lot of just off-piste terrain.

20 – Engadin Scuol  Pleasant, enjoyable and not hard core at all. Very easy gondola to the slopes from town. Wide open, all above tree line, very large rolling groomers with very good grooming. Some steeps, can be very high speed. All lifts with the exception of the highest peak, which is accessed by a T-bar. Not very busy, and the caliber of skier is medium to good. Great for families and kids. With new snow there would be a lot of skiable terrain; otherwise on the smaller side.

21 – Savognin/Radons (Graubünden)  Rolling groomers and great low angle powder. Exceptional vistas.

22 – Port du Soleil (Valais)  One of the closest ski areas near our house. Huge, and who doesn’t want to ski to France for lunch? Also the largest mountain biking destination (by trail volume?) in Europe. Very weather dependent, can get fogged out.

23 – Adelboden–Lenk (Bern)  Looks like it would be excellent on a powder day. Very speed groomers, use big guns. Popular and crowded when warm. Short season, pretty low, highest point is 2100 meters. The opposite (west) side of the valley has a small ski area. Less steep, more children, more low key. Covered under the same pass.

24 – Diavolezza-Lagalb (Graubünden)  Very few lifts, very long runs, high elevation. Very steep and very fast. Combine with St Moritz – it would be worth it as a combo trip.

25 – Andermatt (Uri)  Skiing was very good. It’s very large – so large that they offer a special on the “apre-train,” to allow people to ski from one end and train back on the other. The equipment is very modern, which is reflected in the surprising 89 CHF lift ticket, the highest I’ve seen in Switzerland. The on piste runs are long, very steep, wide open, great views. It’s above tree line in glacier scree and boulders, so any off piste would require significant coverage.

26 – Engelberg (Obwalden)  Very steep, amazing side country, very technical but not difficult, requiring avi gear for safety (and a group). Excellent off-piste, steep on-piste, do not go there for the groomers. There aren’t really any warm-up runs, everything, unless you’re skiing on the home run, is red or black and hard charging. It’s all above the tree line.

27 – Verbier (Valais)  Verbier is full of tourists, popular for the “once a year skiers” and generally feels unsafe. Very short runs, long lift lines, and reminds me of everything bad about Tahoe. If you have to ski here, and it happens to be a snow day, try Bruson, accessed from the Le Châble lift. When we skied it, it was empty, with long groomers, great off-piste through the trees, and you can do quite nice laps from the main lift to the poma and back.

28 – Crans-Montana (Valais)  Big, with a lot of terrain. It’s a fairly advanced place, unfortunately attracting a not-advanced crowd, making for a lot of out of control people and a generally stressful experience. The backside on Mount Bonvin is a long and impressive ride.

29 – Saas-Almagell (Valais)  A mid-elevation, local village spot. Super cute for half a day, or perhaps a full day. Easy groomers, of medium steepness. All runs are in the trees with beautiful views of the valley and mountains. Only two chair lifts.

30 – Nax-Mont-Noble (Valais)  Very small, but surprisingly good on-piste. Mostly above tree line. Three fixed lifts, the rest pomo-toe. Great vistas. No appealing place to eat – one cafeteria restaurant and one cash-only Vin Chaud/Burger place.

31 – Aletsch Arena (Valais)  One of our least favorite ski destinations of recent memory. Fairly steep, and good groomers all over the place. Good off piste if there’s fresh snow. There’s a big investment in infrastructure. Far too expensive for what it is (the same as Verbier!) and not worth it. Bad/rude skiers and hikers everywhere, all over the mountain. No one is looking where they are going, extremely crowded, lots of kids, accidents waiting to happen on every run. Limited dining options, extremely down market.

32 – Leukerbad (Valais)  Nice spot, but very small, not much to explore. See notes for summer trips, which would be better for Leukerbad.

33 – Flims-Laax-Falera (Graubünden)  We didn’t like the skiing at all – poorly laid out lifts, thin runs or cat tracks from one lift to another. All above the tree line. Could be good off-piste if there’s a lot of snow cover. Massively crowded, long lines everywhere, and the most expensive place we’ve skied in Switzerland. Popular with snowboarders.

34 – Elm (Glarus)  Cute, very small, south facing, and low elevation – top is around 2000 meters. Two lifts and two T-bars. Partially in the trees, and the groomers are actually pretty steep and fast. Great for children, very local, lots of ski racers – clear a place where you grow up skiing.

35 – Grimentz/Zinal (Valais)  Not a huge fan of this area – Zinal side is a bit better. Very rocky terrain, needs a lot of snow coverage.