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Sarlat-la-Canéda is the tourist center of the region. Its narrow streets are lined with lavish sandstone mansions, perfectly preserved since the middle ages and Renaissance. Extremely touristy and crowded! It’s charming, but probably best just for a meal. 

Food:

  • **Le Bistrot Sarlat, which was good and on a charming square, but just about all the restaurants looked excellent.
  • *www.legrandbleu.eu: Michelin Star Restaurant. This is perfectly good, but in a region of everything being good it doesn’t really stand out. Service is very nice, interior is a bit closed off and generic.

In a tranquil valley 20 minutes north of Sarlat is the impressive ***Château de Commarque, a towering mass of ruins above ancient cave dwellings. This was definitely worth it, with a guide (we found one on AirBnB who was excellent), as it’s a complex site and the tours are only in French. It’s a good mix of history, multi-layered castle action with very historic cave dwellings.

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