If you want to get right up next to a glacier, this is the place to go. A valley over from Zermatt, the experience is very different (low-key, not particularly touristy, lacking the bling and high-end shopping). It’s a charming place and worth a two-night stay. The skiing is excellent, but don’t go here for a ton of skiing time – you’ll spend much more time than you’re used to on trams and gondolas. On the mountain, the food is all fine but restaurants are stuck in the 1970s and a little dingy.

In May 2021 we went back for an off-season stay and really loved it. The town shuts down, perhaps three hotels remain open in May and through mid-June. It’s super quiet, still a bit snowy and cold, but the trails are open and you have wide open spaces all to yourself. It’s marmot central as well! July and August are the peak summer months and we’re told it gets quite busy.

  • ***The Capra Hotel ( is very nice, modern Danish-meets-Alpen design. Good spa with outdoor pool (very hot), very high end restaurant, lovely staff. Has a ski room right at the edge of the lift. Expensive. 
  • ***The Fletschhorn is very nice, a 5 star hotel with very large rooms, nice staff, great views. Food is well done, large portions, aiming to please with traditional favorites. Large wine list and a small spa. It’s quite out of town, about 2 km out a dirt road. Very central for access to hiking.
  • ***Esstube was a lovely dinner spot, traditional food of the region.

Back towards Visp in the same valley, **Visperterminen is a pretty town on the edge of the hillside, with access to many hikes and a wealth of historic architecture. It claims to have the highest elevation vineyards in Europe.

We did the longer section of ***Bisse Hike #19, the chapel trail to Hueterhusi. It’s not an easy one – the first section is straight uphill – with relatively flat terrain after that. Don’t miss the Heuterhusi itself, which has the best views and bisse action. Route is very poorly signed. The chapels (10 in all) march up the hill from Visperterminen – the pilgrimage church contains one of the oldest playable organs in existence, believed to date from the 16th century. 

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