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Megève is a ski resort village in the Alps of southeastern France, in the Mont Blanc massif. It’s especially darling – rustic-chic chalets, fancy hotels, rolling hills, and designer boutiques. It’s relatively low, one of the rare places in the Alps to ski below tree line. It’s on the high-end side, Swiss-level pricing, lots of fur, fancy outfits.

Lodging and Restaurants:

  • ***Flocons de Sel is worth a splurge – a three star dining experience and hotel. It’s not incredibly fancy, but gets all the notes just right. Cozy, wonderful service. Spa is just okay, indoor pool, outdoor hot tub, small sauna. Food is excellent, inventive without being ‘just plates of foam.’ The chef (Emmanuel Renaut) is very personable – we saw him again on the slopes for lunch. 
  • Renaut oversees at least four other restaurants, **Chalet Le Forestier on the piste (casual, delicious – sadly now closed!), **Flocons Village (elegantly casual, in the center of Megeve, delicious food), and **Auberge Du Bois Prin in Chamonix.
  • We also rented an Airbnb a short walk from the central village, which was quite nice (just missed having a spa). Expensively redone with very good taste. It wasn’t exactly a two bedroom, but if you like your friends, it’s fine.
  • In town, we had a uninspiring dinner at *Le Comptoir d’Alice. It’s hipster and friendly, but the food was just not good enough to go back.
  • **Le Bistrot de Megève is a good place to grab a drink (and watch the fashion parade walk by. We haven’t tried the food, but it’s clearly a popular spot.
  • **Les Fermes de Marie is gorgeous – a collection of grand mountain chalets with perfect interior touches. It’s a magical setting with truly impressive pricing ($1000+ per night). We had a fairly good meal in the main dining area (which is stunning). Food was okay but I don’t think it really lived up to the costs – aside from the remarkable cheese and dessert selection.
  • ***Le Refuge is my pick for the best restaurant in Megeve (of the non-Michelin star variety). So food! Traditional Savoyard fare executed perfectly, in a cozy chalet setting.
  • **Restaurant Le Chamois is pretty good. Not perfect, but it’s new and I think they’re still sorting out the menu. The setting was very pretty.

We also stayed on the edges of the resort in Bettex at **Hotel Arbois Bettex. It’s reasonably easy to get to, very 1980s budget resort style, ski-in-ski out. I’d recommend it for the amazing Mont-Blanc views. Hotel La Flèche d’Or is another option to try in the area. The hotel itself has friendly management, quite decent food, and has made an effort to spruce up the rooms. Small summer-only pool and year round sauna.

Things to do:

  • Skiing, obviously. Lower elevation with trees, usually good snow coverage after Christmas, though not entirely “snow secure.” In 2021, pre-Christmas was excellent thanks to early snowfall. 2023 in early January we were rained out. Amazing rolling pistes, great grooming, our favorite place to ski in France (so far).
  • **Le Chemin du Calvaire makes for a nice walk, if the weather isn’t cooperating. Built between 1840 and 1878, the Calvary of Megève is the work of Father Ambroise Martin, parish priest of Megève from 1820 until his death, made up of fifteen chapels and oratorios depicting the stations of the Way of the Cross. It was inspired by various “Sacred Monts” of Italy. It’s just on the edge of town, easy to access.

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