Les Eyzies itself is more of a drive-through moment, lots of touristy restaurants, not as cute as La Roque.

Restaurants around the caves of Les Eyzies tend to be aimed mostly at tourists, but just outside the village, talented chef Pascal Lombard has opened ***Bistrot Les Glycines. This was excellent, one of the best meals we had. Hotel looked nice too, if a bit modern and cold.

***Rouffignac Cave: this is pretty excellent – the real thing (the real cave/real art), where a little train carries you 1 KM into the cave. During the ride, a guide points out smooth, woklike pockets of rock in which cave bears used to curl up and hibernate. Eventually you descend toward numerous carvings of mammoths — Rouffignac is sometimes known as the cave of a hundred mammoths. Despite being created with just a few spare strokes, the engraved creatures are instantly, charmingly recognizable — even kind of cute, with their shaggy snouts and alert eyes. Takes an hour, runs every 30 minutes, French only (doesn’t take reservations, be prepared to wait).

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