The Balcons du Dauphiné are the northern tip of the Isère department, with the Rhône as its border. It’s a very pretty area within an hour of our house, with a lot more than you’d expect to find in a rural part of the country. They also have an exceptionally active and motivated tourist office, with good content and a lot of events.
La Balme-les-Grottes
Named after – you guessed it – the **Grottes of the area, this site has been a source of attraction for at least 15,000 years, according to materials found in the caves. While it’s not massive, it has some beautiful areas and rather entertaining narrow passages to explore. I’d go back with children, who would love the experience. Check the timing (aside from July and August, opening times are quite limited), and skip the tour, as you won’t want to be in a large group.
Crémieu
Cremieu is just to the east of Lyon, a bit in the middle of nowhere, but not far from where we live (about 45 minutes). The town developed in the 13th century, initially around a benedictine priory built on the cliffs, then later around a castle. I was surprised by the amount of tourism – tour buses! – and it has a lot to see, enough to fill several hours. There’s a walking tour (get the map at the TI), with emphasis on pointing out the historic buildings and stages of renovation. It’s interesting, educational, and not precious – lots of “see this building, with windows showcasing 13th, 15th, 16th, and modern styles.”
The original 12th century benedictine priory, long since abandoned, is a significant ruin on the Saint Hippolyte hill. The walk up isn’t incredibly long, and worthwhile for the sweeping views.
Wednesday is market day in Cremieu if you want to do some shopping in their 500-year-old market hall. This is also a great area to explore for bike rides.
**Auberge de Larina, in nearby Annoisin-Chatelans, is a hidden gem in the countryside, a “dress up and take your mother to lunch” place. I’ll quibble a bit with some of the choices (octopus?), but in general the quality was very high, a nice experience.
Saint-Chef
We were extremely, and pleasantly impressed with Saint-Chef: a town you’ve likely never heard of, with remarkable frescoes. The history of this village is intertwined with that of its ***Benedictine Abbey (founded in 500, with parts of the church dating back to the 10th century) – a structure that has suffered the usual abuses over the years, with a twist: there’s a hidden chapel upstairs that preserves 12th century Roman-Byzantine frescoes. Arguably the most important in all of France from this time period, the art is in surprisingly good condition, on the theme of the Apocalypse, and very moving. Access is not the easiest – reserve one of the Sunday tours available from July-September – but they are extremely worthwhile (tour in French).
The abbey city is also known for being the birthplace of illustrious personalities, including the writer Frédéric Dard.
Next to the church, there’s a helpful tourist office, and the small **Musée de Saint-Chef exploring the history of Saint-Chef and its inhabitants. Worth a quick visit.
Saint-Sorlin-en-Bugey
Facing Vertrieu from across the river, Saint-Sorlin-en-Bugey (technically in L’Ain) has some appealing looking dining options and a pretty, old, hilltop town with great mountain views.
We had a very good lunch at **Le Rempart, a simple menu at a very good price. The waitress was funny and very on top of everything.
**Église Sainte-Marie-Madeleine de Saint-Sorlin-en-Bugey, near the top of the town, a priory church of the monks of Ambronay above the Rhône, was built in the Romanesque period, mostly likely over the ruins of a Roman temple. Initially composed of a single chapel, it has been enlarged and rebuilt over the centuries in a primitive Gothic style. It’s austere and striking, with an interesting downhill slope inside the structure, perfectly lined up to take in the local views.
Sault-Brénaz
**Le Sault-Brénaz (technically in L’Ain) is just down the Rhone river from Vertrieu and Saint-Sorlin-en-Bugey – a decent waterside (and greenway-bike trail side) lunch option with a good rapids view and birdwatching.
Soleymieu
The *Maison Forte de Montagnieu is a bit of an oddity. We visited during heritage days. While still in private hands (we were told “of an impoverished family of the region”), it has been cared for by a Christian community that uses it as a “house of spiritual reception” since 1976. The structure and grounds are restored, including a slightly odd chapel that is extremely 70s in style (perhaps in the original barn), and numerous modern buildings for lodgings.
Vernas
A former stronghold of the 13th and 15th centuries, the **Château du Cingle is a typical example of medieval architecture of the region. Privately owned by siblings whose father bought the ruins of the structure in the 1970s, the property is open on occasion – guided tours on request and during the European Heritage Days. The work, and grounds, have been tastefully restored, worth a visit.
Vertrieu
Vertrieu surprised us – it’s an exceptionally pretty little town, with two castles, and for the most part not visible at all from the roadway. With some planning, it’s a nice visit, and biking in the area would be lovely.
Get closer, and you’ll see the strategic location, right on the Rhone – a port dating back at least to the early Middle Ages, as evidenced by the tombs discovered on Rue des Juifs.
There are two Chateaus built by the ruling family. **Château de Vertrieu (Chateau Neuf), more modern and built in the mid-17th century, allows visitors into their restored English-style garden on select summer afternoons. The much older, partially restored hilltop fortified castle is private, but you can hike up to view it from the outside. We liked walking through the town, and there’s a very charming park, Jardin des Simples.
Vignieu
Vignieu is a rural area near Saint-Chef, with an abundance of camping areas and – on clear days – good views of Mont Blanc. We had a Michelin-star lunch at *Restaurant La Grange de Pépé, which I didn’t love. It wasn’t bad (and was reasonably priced), but it feels like a casual restaurant trying to play dress-up, and I wouldn’t make a point of returning.
Our second visit, to *Château de Chapeau Cornu, was not entirely a success. It’s well-priced for a Château stay, and the grounds are impressive, but it’s definitely down-market from a service and quality perspective. Dinner in the casual restaurant was fine, rooms acceptable and no-frills, really terrible breakfast, not the cleanest place. Lots of cats (a plus). We wouldn’t return.
