Lech

***Lech am Arlberg is a manageable, on-the-larger-side collection of ski areas with amazing conditions and extremely good infrastructure. It very much lives up to the hype. Note that the ski map, both digital and physical, is woefully inadequate to understand the topography and distances.

This valley is packed with ski areas – you pass Zurs first, then Lech, which has several smaller communities spreading out from it. Zurs I’d call more a collection of hotels than a town, straddling the main road. Lech itself is fairly small, easy to navigate, and higher-end.

On our most recent trip, we stayed in Zug – a 5-minute drive from the center of Lech – at the very nice ***Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel. It’s a large hotel, but cleverly done and managed, so you really don’t feel like you’re with too many people. There are multiple buildings, connected underground with tunnels, and several ‘levels’ of restaurants (from fancy to elite).

We especially liked:

The very well laid out rooms, with all the right things you want while traveling. Plenty of room for bags, counter space for toiletries, lovely pillows, etc.
Friendly and professionally trained staff, and a high staff to guest ratio.
Delicious food. Breakfast is top notch, and Galen’s schnitzel the first night was excellent – potentially even the best he’s ever had.

On the okay side:

The spa is fine. Not a world class spa, without much view, and missing a cold element (e.g. the cold bucket), but it’s spread out and relaxing.
The location. It’s actually fairly convenient, but the town lift is weather dependent – it was closed on our first day and we had to bus to and from Lech. Not a show stopper at all, but just something to watch out for.
It’s big! Like 5,000 steps a day big, going from rooms to meals to spa.

Other Food

**Burg Hotel Oberlech appeared popular – we stopped in for a drink in the covered outdoor ‘drinking hut.’ The interiors look high end, with a cafeteria style dining area as well as a more intimate restaurant.
Our lunch at *Hotel Goldener Berg was pretty run of the mill – on the pricier side, with very average execution. The building, however, is special, which might be enough of a reason to visit – or just stop for a drink on a sunny day. Parts of the structure are 500 years old, with charming low ceilings and wood, and a grotto in the lower level, which is built right into the stone.

Articles:

Travel & Leisure on Lech (2024)
Conde Nast Traveller: Skiing Lech (and 2024)
The Eater Guide to the Best Restaurants in Vorarlberg (2024)

We stayed in Zams on our first winter visit. It’s about an hour south-east of Lech, which wasn’t bad for a fairly last minute budget booking. We were clearly not the only people with this idea; it was packed with skiers. We stayed at **Gasthof Kronburg: it’s a special spot with an epic view, in a Kloister and run by nuns. The experience leans more institutional than classic in design, but the nuns were lovely and it was a nice experience.