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Maggiore is quite large, could span multiple trips. From North to South:

Domodossola

Domodossola is a pretty, historic town at the foot of the Italian Alps, with a confluence of trains from across the surrounding regions (which is very obvious when you arrive, an overabundance of people with backpacks and luggage). It’s not technically in Maggiore, but from Switzerland, you’re bound to pass it on the way if you come via the Simplon Pass.

The approach has the normal modern and industrial sprawl, but if you can get into the city center, it has a wealth of historic buildings and a cheerful energy. We had a great lunch at **Terminus – outdoor patio and large interior, excellent pizza, pasta, and meats.

Just 10 minutes north in Montecrestese, near the roadway, **Osteria Gallo Nero is a nice lunch stop. It’s rather fine dining, and the food is quite good. Befitting the location, they are quick with getting food to the table and it’s efficient for an Italian meal.

Locarno

Locarno itself is worth a few hours (wouldn’t stay there). It’s touristy in a fairly Italian way, flashy clothing and lakeside promenades.

**Madonna del Sasso, above Locarno, is historically important but a bit of a let-down. It does have good views. Museum/Library has very limited access, check in advance for days/times.

***Ristorante Cittadella: In a town packed with touristy options, this is a classy and elegant seafood option. Don’t miss the church and garden across the street.

Intregna

There are many beautiful passes to get to the Northern end of the lake. If you take the Simplon, be sure to stop at ***Ristorante Grotto Du Rii (Intragna), which has great food and a perfect patio. (Sadly, now closed!)

Isola Brissago

***Isola Brissago: farther North, on the Swiss side, and definitely the winner of the Maggiore islands (though staying on Isola Bella is a close second) . A perfect romantic getaway, with a hotel & a great restaurant, and after the ferries stop in the early evening you have the entire island to yourself.

 Verbania

The ***Botanical Gardens of Villa Taranto are really beautiful and worth a detour. 

Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens

Borromean Islands / Stresa

The Borromean Islands are a group of small, landscaped islands: a major local tourist attraction for their picturesque setting, as well as part of a larger Unesco site. Their name derives from the Borromeo family, which started acquiring them in the early 16th century (Isola Madre) and still owns the majority of them (Isola Madre, Bella, San Giovanni) today. Each island is unique, with Isola Bella being the most famous for its summer palace, terraced gardens, and quite impressive art collection. 

Most people stay in Stresa, and ferry around to the islands. This is a completely fine strategy, though on our second trip we discovered you can actually stay on Isola Bella, which was a rather lovely experience. Stresa owes its fame to its grand luxury hotels (there are many) as well as to its excellent view of the Borromean Islands and the surrounding mountains. It’s incredibly touristy, but not in a particularly bad way. One day/night is plenty.

Food and lodging in Stresa

  • **Ristorante Il Vicoletto, Vicolo Del Pocivo 3, Stresa: great reviews, and the food was excellent. Setting a little boring. 
  • **Taverna del Pappagallo Ristorante e Pizzeria: the best reviewed pizza place, and it was very good. Reserve or arrive early, it books out!
  • **Grand Hotel Iles Borromees (Hemingway stayed here, and Winston Churchill had his honeymoon here), wonderful in classic grand hotel style.
  • Also consider ***Villa Pizzini for a meal (see Orta notes), also accessible from the Maggiore side.

It’s worth considering getting a private taxi if visiting the Isola Bella area as a group. Ferries work but you’re a bit captive to the schedules and the wait can be very long.

  • ***Isola Madre: enchanting sub-tropical gardens, and exotic birds! Birds were the best part. Much less crowded than Isola Bella. We ate on the island at ***La Piratera, not bad, friendly and good food with a nice outdoor patio.
  • *Isola Superiore: the island with restaurants. I’m sure there are good options but we couldn’t wait to leave the chaos.
  • **Isola Bella: dramatic setting, at times overwhelming crowds. The Palazzo Borromeo has a very impressive art collection, worth taking the time to see it. On our second visit, we spent the night at **Boutique Hotel Elvezia – a really nice choice to experience the island with the crowds after the ferries stop. The rooms are fairly large, with great views and classic furnishings. The onsite restaurant has fairly formal service and decent food. Good breakfast. Note that unlike Isola Brissago, you can’t get into the gardens at night, and swimming is discouraged.

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