Rick Steves recommends staying in Haarlem and day tripping to Amsterdam, and after our 2017 trip I’m inclined to agree. It’s a 15 minute train ride away, but feels completely different, historic and charming without the insane crowds. 

• ***Teylers Museum: a “cabinet of curiousities” and quite wonderful. Dinosaur bones, historic prints, a huge collection of early scientific instruments.
• ***The Great Church (St. Bravo’s Harlem): it’s great! Huge, eclectic.
• **Toujours: pretty good French restaurant right by the church