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Drôme is on the fringes of Provence, and looks the part – winding roads that cut through vineyards, lavender fields, almond orchards. Grignan is especially pretty, with golden-stone houses high on a hill, topped with a Renaissance chateau. We found it charming and wished we stayed longer.

Le Clair de la Plume has a number of properties in town. We ate at the **Garden Restaurant, which had less than great service.

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