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If you’re joining the thousands who make a food pilgrimage to San Sebastián, travel an extra 24km west to the fishing village of Getaria and eat at one of the world’s great seafood restaurants. The turbot at ***Elkano, caught in the bay, grilled outdoors and served whole, free of accompaniments or garnishes, may be the best we’ve tasted. The meal was memorable and we loved the town. I’d definitely spend a night next time.

*** The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum was truly excellent. Go out of your way to visit.

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