I visited Chartres for the first time in 2005, with a second visit in 2021. The ***Cathedral Notre-Dame has changed significantly, with a lot of investment (and advances in technology) to very carefully clean the interiors and stained glass. It’s a work in progress, which makes the stark difference even more obvious.

Truly stunning, some of the best (if not the best) stained glass in Europe. Access is spotty, do check ahead to see if the towers and crypt are open, and when the tours are. On Fridays, they remove the chairs to reveal the full labyrinth on the floor. The Royal Portal, carved 1145–55 and technically early Gothic in context, has column-figures — elongated, calm, still fused to their shafts — that are the direct outcome of a century of Romanesque experiment. An excellent example of transition between the styles.

We liked the town, and would consider a stay next time to see the ‘Lumieres’ – the light show/walking tour. It’s apparently one of the most elaborate in France.

Le Moulin de Ponceau looked especially charming, with outdoor seating and a dining room hanging over the river.