The trulli, limestone dwellings found in the southern region of Puglia, are remarkable examples of drywall (mortarless) construction, a prehistoric building technique still in use in this region. The trulli are made of roughly worked limestone boulders collected from neighbouring fields. Characteristically, they feature pyramidal, domed or conical roofs built up of corbelled limestone slabs.

This town is very famous, very touristy, doesn’t appear to exist as a town so much as a tourist destination. Worth a 20 minute stop, maybe a meal, definitely not a night.

**L’Aratro (this was good): L’Aratro has traditional architecture and a charming garden for dining alfresco. The interior is a mixture of white-washed walls and dark, rustic furniture, and the menu reads like the greatest hits of regional fare. Try the orecchiette – the local pasta that gets its name because it looks like a little ear – but leave room for a tempting plate of grilled lamb. Proximity to the Adriatic Sea also means that fish options abound. Open 12:30-3:30, Via Monte San Michele 25/29,


***Borgo San Marco, C.da S. Angelo, 33 72015 Fasano (BR), Wonderful! And Expensive! Quite a place, definitely worth a night or two. The pool is epic, and don’t miss exploring the grounds.   

Of all the masserie (fortified farmhouses) in Puglia, this stands out for its easy-going atmosphere, its wonderful grounds and its no-nonsense prices. Built by the Knights of Malta to guard the Adriatic coast from Saracens, it’s medievally handsome: a monumental tower, cool vaulted rooms, a wedding-cake chapel. Its 90-hectare grounds offer all the space you could need: shady lawns, a walled citrus garden and a glorious beach-edge pool, festooned with delphiniums and bougainvillea. 

It’s been in the Amati family for 200 years and the current owner added his own eclectic touches to the 1981 restoration, while maintaining its prized olive oil production. You’ll find, in the stone-flagged drawing room, a gleaming 1950’s MotoGuzzi beside the huge-wheeled frantoio (oil press); in the rustic rooms and suites scattered about the tower and outhouses, a vigorous mix of Puglian whitewash and burnt pastels, of brightly quilted stone beds and classic muslin-draped four-posters. 

Martina Franca

A quick stop, but perhaps worth a meal. The historic center is lovely. Restaurant Tower Angelucco was closed on our visit, but highly recommended.


Another quick stop, and worth another visit. The town is busy and touristy, but rather pretty. There are many lovely looking masserias in the surrounding towns.

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