We stayed at **Il San Francesco Charming Hotel (http://www.ilsanfrancescohotel.it/index.php). I wouldn’t seek this area out, but if you’re driving from Rome to points south it’s a good choice, on Lake Sabaudia. Really lovely spot, nice hotel, very white and modern.

We spent our last day in Tivoli, about 40 minutes east of Rome. It’s packed with tourists, but not quite at Rome levels, and is pretty easy to get in and out of. The town is very old, rather grimy,