Just as Friuli is very different from the rest of Italy, its capital, Trieste, is unlike other Italian cities – a mix of Vienna with Venice. Over the past few years, it has been transformed from a gritty frontier crossing

We stopped for lunch in **Udine, which is notable for its food scene. It’s a fairly typical mid-sized Italian city, though cleaner than the southern versions. The main square is notable for being crammed with things that don’t belong together. We