Bregenzerwald is one of the main regions in the state of Vorarlberg. Largely rural and agricultural, there are several major protected areas, including the UNESCO Großes Walsertal Biosphere Reserve.

Around the year 1000, Bregenz Forest, which was still completely forested at the time, was settled and cultivated from Bregenz via the Schneiderkopf and the Lorena mountains. The highest areas were settled in the late Middle Ages by Walsers who came from Graubunden and Valais. 

The area is famous for beautiful scenery, cheese (and cheese tourism), wood processing, excellent passes and roads, and Baroque architecture.

Schwarzenberg

Schwarzenberg is the architectural showpiece of the region – a lovely little town with a high concentration of well-preserved historic houses in “Bregenzerwald” style: mixed stone-wood construction combining the residential building, the stable and the barn under one roof. The town homes were all built around the same time – after the great fire of 1755.

We stayed at the lovely **Hotel Hirschen, which has a mix of gorgeous historic rooms and more modern suites across several buildings right next to the historic church. There’s a new spa area with a pool, two saunas, and multiple floors of relaxation areas. The restaurant has a Michelin star and was quite elevated and on the formal side. Good breakfast spread. On the expensive side, overall, but it’s a special place and worth a visit.

A short jog to the west, you’ll find the **Rappenlochschlucht in Dornbirn. We ate at **Gasthof Guetle (traditional food, nice setting).

The narrow Rappenlochschlucht was gouged out by the thundering Dornbirner Ache. A 10-minute walk leads up to a good viewpoint and a 30-minute trail to the Staufensee, a turquoise lake ringed by forest.  It’s a really eclectic place – a fancy restaurant, a waterfall, a Rolls Royce Museum (didn’t do), and a Creche Museum (nativity sets, which we did do). None of this qualifies as a must-do, but it’s interesting in its randomness.