My first 2005 trip through Bologna was quite brief — I climbed to the top of their famous Torre degli Asinelli, was pelted with hail, took cover in San Petronio church, inhaled a delicious bowl of pesto pasta, and ran for the train. It’s hard to wander and appreciate the sites when you’re a popsicle. 

Galen’s more recent trips have dipped into the excellent food in the region (why most people go to Bologna). It’s large (7th largest city in Italy) and very old – Etruscan, but likely even older than that. In the Middle Ages it was among the largest European cities by population. Famous for its towers, the last few standing are just a fractional percentage of the earlier skyline, estimated at around 190 towers in total.

Hotels

• *Hotel I Portici: rooms are modern and spare, a little hospital like, but with nice tall ceilings. The bathroom trash wasn’t emptied, the shower had low-pressure, and generally a little tired. The breakfast was good, with a hot kitchen for orders as well as a buffet.