A very lovely old town, great/consistent architecture in a bend in the river. Victor Hugo’s birthplace. Outskirts are slightly grim, stay in the old town. If you only do one thing, visit the Citadel. The town itself deserves a good wander, and has grand churches plus authentic Roman ruins. Julius Caesar visited. Make reservations in advance for lodging/food – there’s very limited inventory and it’s nearly impossible to find an open restaurant on Sundays.


  • ***The Citadel is a Unesco world heritage site and it’s extraordinary. Extremely impressive for the structure itself – but they’ve made it into a zoo! Literally. Who doesn’t love monkeys in moats.
  • [didn’t make it] Le Poker d’As Restaurant: highly recommended
  • **Musée des Beaux-Arts, which is small and very impressive, quite diverse collection. Nothing show-stopping, but everything is better than average.
  • Ride bikes around the city and through the tunnel under the citadel.
  • *Hôtel De Paris 33 Rue des Granges. These rooms are fine and central, but stay somewhere else. Service was awful.
  • ***Rotisserie Vauban, 30 bis rue Rivotte: really good, specializes in chicken and grilled meats.

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