Andermatt is a small mountain village at the historical center cross of the north-south and east-west traverses of Switzerland. It’s famous in car circles for access to three epic Alpine passes: the Oberalp Pass (2,044 m.) to the east, the Gotthard Pass (2,106 m.) to the south and the Furka Pass (2,436 m.) to the west. The Nufenen Pass ( 2,478 m.) is quite nearby as well.

To digress on the passes, as they are Galen’s main reason to visit the area:

• The **Furka Pass (Valais) is famous from a James Bond (Goldfinger) perspective, with dramatic turns. Above the treeline. Bumpy from the top of the pass going from the East side down to Realp (where you get the train). The rest is in good condition.  It’s also the home of the now-abandoned Hotel Gletscher Restaurant of not-Wes-Anderson fame.
• Gotthard Pass: There are three ways to get over or through: 1. Old pass – cobbles (slow); 2. New pass – big semi-boring high-speed sweepers; 3. Tunnel – super boring.
• The ***Grimsel Pass is technically in Bern/Valais, but conceptually I think of it as the pass to Andermatt. In great shape, lovely smooth driving conditions over dramatic vistas. Arguably Galen’s favorite pass in Switzerland. Don’t miss the turnoff to the older cobblestone stretch of the road. Opens late – limited summer only.
• Lukamanierpass: Pretty valley, but not very exciting road. 
• Nufenen Pass: Beautiful, long pass into the very long, deserted, and beautiful valley. Just over the pass heading south-east, there is a long section of traditional old cement slabs which are bumpy and need to be taken slower in a tightly-sprung car. Can link to Gotthardpass & San Bernardino Pass.
• Oberalpass: Tight hairpins and super smooth surface out of Andermatt down through a pretty valley with some mild curves and semi-straights. It is a very short pass that links eventually to Lukamanier pass, or if you continue, to Chur. In the winter, this pass is a ski slope in Andermatt.

San Bernardino Pass: Get off the motorway for the smooth switchbacks up the steep mountain from Mesocco all the way up to the town of San Bernardino. Then, no center-line and smooth surface up and over the pass to Andermatt. Skip the tunnel unless it’s winter.

In winter, Andermatt surprisingly cute – after a long period of decline, there’s a fair amount of investment going into the area, and the historic streets of the old town are well preserved and lined with restaurants and boutiques. There’s a major new development in the north of town (“new Andermatt”), which reminds me of Northstar in Tahoe. Access is relatively easy via train (there’s a car train for drivers).

In summer, at the moment I’d consider it a drive-through destination. There’s a ton of construction – apartment highrises – after years of expanding the infrastructure of the ski area.

Skiing was very good. It’s very large – so large that they offer a special on the “apre-train,” to allow people to ski from one end and train back on the other. The equipment is very modern, which is reflected in the surprising 89 CHF lift ticket, the highest I’ve seen in Switzerland. The on piste runs are long, very steep, wide open, great views. It’s above tree line in glacier scree and boulders, so any off piste would require significant coverage.

Lodging

• We were very happy at **The River Hotel. It’s a locally-run boutique hotel, comfortable rooms, adjacent bar/casual restaurant. Good location, reasonably priced. No spa.
• *Hotel Sonne: Hotel is tastefully modern refurbished, and rooms are nice. No spa. It is in the center of town with 9 parking spaces. Food was below par, with a tasteless schnitzel, and breakfast was low on variety, old/not fresh products, and with no hot kitchen.

Food

• **Alp-Hittä – Après-Ski & Restaurant Andermatt: Really cute, traditional Swiss Alpine cuisine. Not super fancy, but nice views and good food. In the summer, on the pass, in the winter ski-in.
• **Biselli, a newer restaurant in the new town, was great. It’s very modern/hip, food (Italian) was very well done, service friendly, and an excellent wine list.
• On the slopes, **Ustria Alpsu was a good recommendation from our hotel – Italian-Swiss food, cozy setting near the lifts, friendly staff, large portions.
• We ate at **The Restaurant at The Chedi (not to be confused with the Japanese restaurant) for Christmas dinner. It’s a grand setting, huge spaces, very high end international style. Good service, fancy wine list. We had the Asian tasting menu, which was just okay – fun in its diversity, and certainly very good by Swiss measures, but pretty middle of the road for California Asian food standards. The hotel looks very nice, but I’m not sure it justifies the eye-watering price tag.

Articles: https://www.travelandleisure.com/trip-ideas/skiing-trips/andermatt-switzerland-ski-resorts

Disentis

**Disentis Abbey is a Benedictine monastery – one of the oldest in Switzerland. It’s in a relatively isolated spot, on the outer edge of the Andermatt ski area. Very large and very recently restored. Interesting for how active it is, major destination for clergy workshops and the like.