Many consider Alpes-de-Haute-Provence a “seasonal destination” – the higher and more remote areas can be hard to access, you’ll find ski resorts surprisingly far south, and in general it’s fairly rural, even unpopulated. I like this description from Wikipedia:
“The relief of the land compartmentalizes the region: the enclosed valleys are difficult to access, so dividing the country into as many local areas which communicate very little with the outside. In 1877, 55 communes only had access to trails or mule paths.”
We’ve made a point in recent years to explore, but we’re still just scratching the surface.
Sites on the Route of the Grandes Alps
Heading north from Vence, our goal for the day was to explore the southern Alps in the summer – these can be difficult roads to access in the winter, open roughly from June to October. We quickly found ourselves on the ‘route of the Grandes Alpes’ – which starts to get interesting around La Roquette-sur-Var (if approaching from the south). The route in total goes from Thonon-les-Bains to Menton, 720 kilometers, 18 large passes, 6 of which are at more than 2000 meters above sea level. It was designed in 1911 to connect all the main passes – largely as a tourist attraction – and was a major effort, completed in 1937.
We loved the red-rock section up to Varlberg (a big ski area). Beautiful, wide road through gorges, in perfect condition (photos taken around Rigaud). Continue on to motorbike mecca, Guillaumes, with a crumbling castle (the 15th-century ruins of Château de la Reine Jeanne) sitting over the popular village for a break on your ride.
Keep going to the **Col de la Cayolle (Entraunes) – it’s very high, not populated (by humans, at least – major animal population). From here, consider if you want to backtrack or continue – the road north is in far worse shape, often one lane, and not as fun to drive. We ended our day in Barcelonette.
Barcelonette
Barcelonette is perhaps a one-time stop, though it has some novelty and in general a good vibe. Locals travelled to Mexico in the mid-19th century to seek their fortunes and some, having become rich through banking, retailing, and textiles, returned to their hometown and built the colonial-style villas (not Mexican-style, though they’re described as “Mexican villas”). It’s very homogeneous and pretty, a surprise for a very remote place. Also extremely popular with motorcyclists.
We enjoyed our stay at **Villa Puebla, a nicely (and recently) restored villa, with friendly hosts, a nice breakfast, and obvious commitment to the region.
Dinner at **Ô tandem was just fine – clearly very popular, food was tasty, right in the middle of town. For the record – we didn’t find a single Mexican restaurant in the town.
Entrevaux
Built on a spur in the river, the heavily fortified “city” has a cathedral and citadel as well as snack bars and a tiny motorbike museum. This is a skip for now. We had a spectacular dinner, but the whole place is basically abandoned. It will probably be a major tourist destination in 10 years, but just barely getting started. No hotels in the town that we were able to find, just local house rentals in the surrounding hills.
- We stayed at **La Maison de Julie: very friendly, basically an Airbnb, just outside of town.
- ***Restaurant l’Ambassade in the old town was excellent. The duck!
Sisteron
Would be an excellent lunch break and 2-3 hour stop. Great fortress, old town, cathedral, etc.
